Differential fluid selection depends on application requirements. For severe duty applications including towing and high temperatures, a 75W-90 synthetic gear oil is recommended. The fluid should be 100% synthetic for maximum protection. The correct fluid ensures proper lubrication and prevents gear wear.
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WEIRD! Seals INSIDE the Axle??? Ram 2500 Cummins 4x4インデックス作成:
Welcome back to the shop, where we're tackling a Dodge Ram. This video shows our mechanics performing detailed car repair on the vehicle's drivetrain, focusing on the differential and axle components. We'll show you the process of opening the differential, working on the gears, and cleaning parts, which often involves handling gear oil. Support the Channel with a Like & Comment and/or Subscribe for more! Become a Channel Member here on YouTube or visit Patreon at https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs to donate and support the channel! Visit our Second Channel on YouTube, RainmanRay Off Duty https://www.youtube.com/c/RainmanRayOutoftheShop Check out Rainman Ray’s Repairs and Ray's Auto Clinic Merch HERE: https://www.RainmanAuto.com Take care of your car or truck with premium synthetic Amsoil Engine Oil and fluids! Do you perform your own maintenance? Get premium synthetic Amsoil products HERE! ************************* https://www.amsoil.com/?zo=30606222 ************************** When it comes to Synthetics, Amsoil is the best in the business! Amsoil backs up their claim with numerous performance testing methods and results can be found at https://www.amsoil.com/?zo=30606222 Visit www.RainmanRaysRepairs.com To have your vehicle serviced at Ray's Auto Clinic in Bradenton Florida where we proudly use Amsoil premium synthetics and other top tier automotive products! Tool Picks Found on Amazon: Astro Tools 9532 Tungsten Carbide Gasket Scraper https://amzn.to/4j8pjwb Mountain 5-Piece Metric Double Box Universal Spline Reversible Ratcheting Wrench Set; 8 mm - 18mm, 90 Tooth Design, Long, Flexible, Reversible; MTNRM6 https://amzn.to/3OJTRp2 As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Also, I personally use or have used the products featured in my links and only recommended them if I feel they are of good quality. Take a look at my other Affiliated Brands and Product Recommendations below: Interested in Banks Power Performance Products? Visit Banks Power HERE! ***** https://www.bankspower.com/RAY ********** #mechanic #repair #autorepair #restoration #wifeunit #brakecleanmafia ABOUT the CHANNEL This channel is about general automotive repair and maintenance . We cover a large variety of automotive services and repairs in a privately owned independent automotive repair shop, Ray's Auto Clinic, located in Bradenton Fl. Check out our other channel here: RainmanRay Off Duty https://www.youtube.com/c/RainmanRayOutoftheShop Don’t forget to subscribe and share! Support the Channel with a Like & Comment and/or Subscribe for more!
What are you doing?
>> Working on cars.
>> I think this looks like wood shop.
>> It is, but I'm working on cars. I need this piece of wood to fix this Dodge back here.
That one.
>> That Dodge.
>> Yeah, that Dodge. I need a piece of wood to fix the Dodge. It's fine. Most dodges are repaired with plywood and drywall screws. Don't Don't worry about it.
>> That lasts. Okay.
>> Yeah, sure. That welder.
That welder.
That welder.
>> What?
>> That welder.
>> Oh, that. Hello there, everybody. Good day to you guys. Welcome back to the channel. Glad you guys are here. I am super glad to be here as always. Behind me is a 2006, 20 years old. It's a Dodge Ram 2500.
It's got the Cumins, not the Cummings.
People say coming.
There's no G in Cumins. It is a Cumins straight six. Very much of a torque powerhouse. Customer states on this one uh that they had rebuilt the AC and it had some AC problems. I had located a failed fan clutch in it previously. Made some AC work on it. Uh there's actually a short about that or a shorter video.
I'll leave a link to it in this video's comment section so you guys can uh check out what was going on with the AC system. Uh, but it is on the rack right now with a uh a different concern that we need to get under it uh in order to diagnose. Let's do a quick mileage check here on the odometer. We have 123,627 miles on the odometer. Uh customer states that uh there is some oil or something leaking from the front axle.
So, I'm suspecting it's a front axle seal. Let's go ahead and raise this thing up and inspect it while we drop it off the lift. Cut.
And uh yeah, we're going to fix a car if we didn't break one. I think the lift was just talking to us a little bit.
Settling in. Yeah, that looks good. We look good there.
H. Yeah. Live action heart attack. You guys caught it in the making. It's even scarier when they do that when they're four or five feet up in the air. Ain't that right? Yep.
Okay, that one's hooked up. Hey, Anthony, come here, man. We got to we got to have a talk real quick. We got to have a talk. So, the uh the Interweb people have noticed uh you have an increased presence here at Ray Auto Clinic at uh in Bradon, Florida. Not Paul Meadow. There's another 808 19th Avenue in Palmet. We did. Yeah. Somebody sent some of my stuff to some guy's house. We had to go over there and pick it up. But they were wondering what you're doing here so often. Would you care to uh let him know or do you want to just leave him hanging for a while?
>> Uh hang around, take up space.
>> Yeah. Is that it?
>> No.
>> He's a lawn ornament.
>> I'm moving down here. I'm I'm an employee here.
>> So, I'm the shop manager and I work on vehicles and all that good stuff >> cuz Ray is nice enough to hire me.
>> Now, you know, well, I need quality people with decades and decades of experience. And I know you got about 300 years of technician experience. So, >> 299.
>> I mean, I figure that's close enough to make the threshold. So, we got the experience and I need a Ford guy. I'm not much of a Ford guy.
>> Just got done with the F250.
>> Yeah, you did. I love the fact you're just choosing out these Fords. So, if you guys got some Fords, I got a genuine Ford master technician here in the house. He's here to assist and provide excellent service opportunities for your vehicles. Anyway, now that I'm done dropping this Ram off the rack, let's uh let's raise it back up in the air real quick.
>> The ground will catch it. The >> the ground will catch it. You're not wrong. If it goes down, it's only going to fall a little bit. It'll stop.
>> That's gravity.
>> Yep. Yep. The unstoppable force in the immovable object.
Anyways, let's say right about there is good for our viewing pleasure. Let's set her on the lock so it doesn't fall down and kill me. There we go. So, over here on the front, I believe they said it was the front, we saw some stuff leaking.
Let's see what we can find. So anyway, uh we have here got some fluid leaking.
There's some looks like some kind of uh oil, I would say. Feels like some kind of oil.
Tastes like some kind of oil. Yeah, nasty. Don't Don't eat oil. So I I'm speculating here that we got an axle seal leak. Now, the curious thing about these Danas is the seals are not out here on the uh on the edges. They are inside. here on the inside. So, we're going to have to pull this cover off to gain access to that seal. I'm probably going to have to pull the differential out, I think. Yeah. Yeah, for sure.
Diff's got to has to come out. And I do believe that these axles and U-jints will have to be removed as well. So, let's pull the front wheels off and get started. Hello, woman.
>> Hello.
>> What are you doing, girly?
>> Uh, just hanging out.
>> Hanging out.
>> I wasn't going to interrupt you this time.
>> You didn't? No, you were good. I Thank you. you come barging out.
>> Thank you for not barging out. I need this. Hey, did you get the mileage on this truck?
>> Uh, I don't believe I even checked that truck in. That was Anthony.
Get it.
>> No, no, no. I wasn't the service rider for this truck.
>> Okay. All right.
>> Go take it up with Homeboy.
>> Oh, okay. Homeboy. All right. You get a pass. All right. Uh, let's uh let's go ahead and pull this wheel off this unit.
Oh, no. It's got fuels.
Oh, no.
You didn't get the monitors, did you?
>> On this one.
>> Which one? This one.
>> This one?
>> I didn't drop this one.
>> That's not my fault.
>> Check this one in.
>> It's nobody's responsibility. It's It's nobody's fault.
>> I didn't check this in. It's got your name on it.
>> It doesn't. I thought it had your name on it.
>> No.
>> No. See, he knows to get the mileage every time just to make sure he doesn't get caught not getting the mileage every time. So, now the running joke will never stop.
>> Uh-huh. You better get that mileage there, girl.
>> Okay. Well, where's the ticket? And I'll uh give you the key.
>> It's already been completed, inspected, and turned in. All right. So, I need to get a a hex bit or a Torx bit to pull these caps off. Um, two of these are real bolts, and the rest of those are faux bolts. Okay. So, we got to find the rest.
>> So, my powers of observation here are detecting that this is not metal. Not metal. Not metal. This one is metal. So, we're going to use our little dangle ball bit right here.
It's the same as a regular hex bit except I don't have to be straight on.
It's like a universal Aha. And since that's definitely one of the bolts, that means the other one is 180° out from it.
All right, we need ultra thin wall sockets.
Fantastic. Now, fortunately for me, I come prepared. So, we have a 19 mm and a 21 mm flip socket. It goes either way.
The catch is you've got to use at least a 3-in extension and you will lose some torque with this because you are using an extension. But the way this functions is that the drive section of it inside.
You see that in there? The drive section is actually here in the center where most sockets it's on the end. So it functions as a 19 in this direction.
Flip it over, hence the name flip socket. Now it's a 21 in this direction.
Right? So, those are the two most common socket sizes for your wheels is going to be 19 and a 21.
And since this is specifically made for wheel service, it's also a thin wall.
They make these in a non-thin wall, of course, but uh got to have a thin wall.
Gravity Get on there.
There we go.
Ah, it's got a wheel lock, too. As if the actual lug nuts weren't enough.
There is a wheel lock in there. Awesome.
Here we go. After some digging around, I found the tool to remove the wheel lock socket or wheel lock nut or whatever in there. Found the socket. There we go.
Yeah, look at this thing.
It splines into this socket. These are a matched set. And if you lose this, you're going to have a bad time. So, next up, we need to get this uh brake caliper out of here. I'm I'm going to remove the caliper and the bracket at the same time.
Two bolts.
Two very tight bolts. Okay, breaker bar ratchet time. I choose the big one.
Let's see what we can do here with breaker bar cam.
>> Hey, Ray. Uh, Tom, is that you?
That's tight.
I'll be right back, you guys. Okay, my intermission's over. A little micro meeting with the neighbor. Let's get this next one uh disconnected here.
That's heavy.
Or friction torque. There you go. Words.
Probably the heat. I'm going to blame it on the heat. Yeah. Yeah. It's definitely not old age. It's for sure the heat. So anyways, got these guys loose. Oh, that was easy. Look at that. Just comes right out. That one top.
Beautiful.
They're all oily and lubricated in a gross fashion.
Okay. So, what we'll do here, grab the whole assembly, pull it off of the rotor. Come off the rotor assembly.
Dang, it's on there.
That ought to be fun to put back on.
I'll just kind of stash this caliber uh up here on top of everything.
You stay here. We're going to have to hang it. It's going to fall down. That's what these little guys are for.
Stick that in somewhere.
There we go. That'll do.
No.
Oh no, I don't have enough. The hose is hanging me up. Okay, new tactic.
Just hang it from the spring back here.
See, when I edit this stuff out, makes it look easier than it really is.
But even the simple task of hanging your caliper can get really aggravating.
Now I'm getting a little poed. My pad fell out, which is exactly what I didn't want it to do.
It's not doing anything that's serving me right now.
Oh, you now that we've easily hung the brake caliper out of the way, we'll pull the rotor off of it, revealing the uh the hub bearing assembly. Now, this hub bearing's got to come out because this whole axle right here has to come out through the knuckle. So, we need to remove this big old axle nut right here.
And then the hub assembly has got one, two, three, and four bolts from the backside to get a hold of to pull the hub bearing off of the uh steering knuckle. To properly attack those, we need a wobble bit on a pretty decent size gun, an 18 two on this side. We'll get the other two on the other side. Grab the steering arm and then this little little ear right here and just kind of give it a steady bit of pressure and it should turn. There we go. And now we can get at it from the backside. Top one. That's a little deeper in there.
And the bottom one easier.
Okay. Bearing is uh now just kind of in there hanging out. And it's being secured by the axle nut which is around the front right there. Let's straighten the wheel out again or the steering rather. There we go.
Let's get our big old cotter pin out of the hole junk. Not reusing it. And that looks like a 36. Never mind. How about a 1 and 1316?
>> Got it. Oh, that was chewed up. Now we just need a couple love taps here with the air gun. No, not really. It's loose.
Okay, so we just need a couple love taps on the back of this guy with a hammer and this uh this hub should come right out. Loud noises. But before we take this hub off of here, I want to pull this wheel speed sensor out real quick. Like I could leave the sensor in and unbolt it from uh or disconnect it at the end of the the cable up on the frame, but it's mounted to a few things. So, I think I'll just take it out right here.
And now we are disconnected.
There we go. Getting this hub off of here can be highly difficult, especially in the northern climate type of areas, uh due to rust. So, we have a specialty uh linear impact driving tool designed specifically to remove these highly rusted wheel hub assemblies. So, all we got to do is kind of pick up on it and pull. Just give it a couple love taps there.
It's a lot of work, especially for you salt belt guys, but just kind of grab that and pull it right out and you're all set. Set this down over here.
Take our heat shield thing. Splash shield. Splash shield.
Heat and splash. Sure. So, now we can see, look at here. There's our There's our U-jint and our axle assembly right there. So, this guy should It either slides right out or I've got to uh unseclipip it. I I think I might have to unseclipip this one. I'm not sure.
Let's get behind it with a pry bar right here and see if it pops out. What I'm referring to is the way that this shaft will get secured to the differential inside. There could be C clips that lock it in or it might just kind of slide right out. And looks like we have no clips.
There we go.
One axle U-jint assembly. Hey. Okay, you're right. You're right. That's that was a new bearing over there and it kind of wasn't really a fair comparison because it had been replaced and it stands to reason that all the rust that could have been locking it in has been removed. So, I went ahead and uh started tearing down everything on this uh passenger side. We've got the bearing ready to come out. Now, this one has not been replaced anytime soon. That thing's rusted in there. Super customatic like right. So, I'm going to attempt to uh utilize the exact same wheel bearing extractor device here. It's an 8 O.
That's the big boy. We're going to try to get this thing out with just this uh this particular extractor.
I don't know, Northern guys.
It's rusted in there pretty good.
No, never mind. We got it. That one's for you, A-Rod. Ah, we'll put that guy down over there. Take its heat shield, bring it with it. And now we're in a position to uh pull this other shaft out. Then we're going to raise the truck up some and uh pull the cover off the differential and start the disassembly on the inside. Going to roll around over here, get a hold of my pry bar device, get behind this flange, pull that guy right out. Oh, I hear dirty diesel. Pew pew.
Here's that 67s driving around. Not the stupid saying 67. The the displacement 6.7.
The other one's probably like sitanic in nature. There's my splines on my shaft.
Got a long shaft and a short shaft. This side is the long shaft. That's the short shaft side. Okay. So, let's uh let's run this thing back up. We're going to pull I think I got to pull the suspension or steering out of it. This uh big link needs to come away so I can get access to the diff inside. So, we'll come around over y green subscribe button.
Begin lifting. Now, this thing's got some gravity in it.
Let's go. Three clicks.
There we go. Back on the lock mechanism for safety.
Good to go. All right, back on the driver's side. Let's get this tie rod removed.
That was easy. Fell right out. Brought my socket with it. Let's let that thing relax and chill down there. We'll put the nylon nut back on it so it does not become lost.
There we go. Now we have access to our diff cover here. This I wonder if I can pull it up. Yeah, let's do that. Let's put it up here.
It's way more better. I like that idea.
Yeah, having it suspended is probably a little better than having it dangling.
I'll take a zip tie here and and lose it. Drop it.
This isn't going so well, is it?
Thought it was going to be slick. Nah.
There. Now we're zip tied out of the way. Let's go ahead and start pulling out all the bolts here. There are many of them.
Crack this cover loose. Drain the fluid.
Oh, stink.
I can smell diff oil stink.
Slippage.
That one tastes all good looking diff oil. I guess they must have changed it.
I mean, there is a plug right here to fill. And it's got a drain plug, too. I believe.
No.
No, there is no drain plug. Maybe there's a gasket here.
We'll see. We'll find out.
Feels like it's a gasket cuz it's not glued on to the case here.
See that one?
Blurp. Blurp.
Yeah, there must be a gasket behind this cover. I feel it.
Yep. Absolutely.
reusable gasket, too. So, here's the magnet on the on the fill plug. Not much metal on there at all. Just a little bit of shavings. That's good.
Some rust in here. Has this diff once had water in it?
I believe that there was once water in this differential.
How about that?
Okay. So, what we need to do here, remove that fastener, that one. That's going to pull these little retainer clips out right here. That's going to allow us to rotate this. There's a big nut right here threaded on. And that nut is what sets the preload on uh on the side bearings here. So, we need to remove this, remove the clip, back the nut off, take the caps off, and then we can pull the whole differential assembly out. Our our seals are located here and here. So then we can pop those seals out and then we've got to use a special driver to press them in from the inside.
That's why we have to take the differential out. Make sense? So let's get this uh party started.
Retainer clips disconnected.
Yep. Set that down right here.
That's two of them.
Take these uh these main cap bolts loose.
Got the big ratchet again.
There we go.
Turn there.
All right, they're loose. So, let me uh let me move you guys over here to this side a little bit. Sliding around. So, what I'm going to do, come down some.
We're going to take the the left side cap all the way off and I'm going to adjust that adjuster nut out on this side. That way the diff can move away from the pinion gear. That's the one that comes through on the back side of this housing. We can move it away from it. And then we're going to leave this side over here stationary, I think. That way when I go to put it back together, we only have to make one adjustment, not two adjustments. So, we'll take this thing, set it down in the exact orientation that it was removed in or from, and then we can uh we'll get a little punch or a screwdriver or something to rotate this little collar right here.
Yeah. Take a chisel. It's only going to go one way.
We're backing off.
See that? Got some motion in that uh that bearing there. So, now we're we're backing off for sure. Getting more space. Good.
So, let's go ahead and pull this cap off and then we're ready to uh remove the housing.
And it is going to want to fall out and jump at us.
Oh, happy.
There we go. Got him.
Okie do. So, take a look inside the hole there. That's our axle seal, right? Got the other one here on that side. Another axle seal. And like I said, these are pressed in from the inside, which means we've got to push them out from the outside. So, what I'm going to do is take uh this jack uh jack handle right here. It came off the floor jack. And we're going to run this little jack handle down into the hole here until it uh pushes up against the back side of that uh that seal. And then we're going to hammer the seal out. So, what I'm going to do, you guys come over here so you can see the uh the bearing or the seal rather, and I will go smack it with a hammer to pull the thing out. All >> righty. I'm in position here, I think.
Give this a couple love taps. Should pop right out.
Right.
You going to come out of there? What's it doing? Yeah, it's coming out.
It's coming out very sideways.
Oh no, man. I got to take that stinking ring out.
I didn't want to do that. Now I've got to make a bunch of adjustments.
Put that back in.
All right, I've got to take these rings out.
I was hoping to get away with not doing that.
It looks like that seal is larger than this little adjuster ring here. I know how to mitigate this little crisis.
Okay, so what I'm going to do, we're going to paint marker this thing.
We'll count the revolutions on the way out and then just put them back in the same spot. So, let's count them here.
Oh, don't do that.
There's one.
Seriously, that's some gritty gritty threads. That's almost two turns, man.
Here comes three.
4 5 6 7 and 1/2 7.5 turns.
>> What are you doing?
>> Working on cars.
>> I think this looks like wood shop.
>> It is, but I'm working on cars. I need this piece of wood to fix this Dodge back here.
That one.
>> That Dodge.
Yeah, that dodge. I need a piece of wood to fix the dodge. It's fine. Most dodges are repaired with plywood and drywall screws. Don't Don't worry about it.
>> That lasts. Okay.
>> Yeah, sure. Okay. So, preparing to install this seal right here. I'm going to put a little bit of RTV around it. Uh, I have got the sneaky suspicion that this axle has been leaking quite a bit and it's been uh it a repair attempt has been made more than once. The these seals that I just took out, they don't look like they've been in there for over 100k or so. They look like uh they've been replaced. So, I'm wondering if I'm doing this again. I I don't think that they have RTV on those seals.
from the factory. Hey, they might just kind of started so it stays. Relax, guys. We're not about to ruin this seal with a hammer. Okay, so now we need to take out my wood. Got to need a a piece of wood and an install tool in order to do that. So, this right here, that's the install tool.
Quite simple actually. We thread it and it changes the overall length and it's designed to press these uh seals into position. Now, as we can see, I don't have enough space here. So, that's where my wood comes in. Stick that piece of wood in there. Press this against the other side.
And that will allow me to push this seal into the housing of the axle.
You try to do this without the tool and it's not going to work. Just Just saying.
All right, I think we're super lined up here. Getting pretty close.
I think that's good.
What do you guys think? Is this going to work?
I think it's lined up quite nicely.
All right. Yep. Let's get a wrench and begin the press action. All right. Here we go. start turning this guy out. It's pressing against the wood, which means this left side cannot go anywhere. So, the only thing that can happen here is this shaft pushes that uh seal back into its recess in the housing tube.
Pretty sure we're going nice and smooth like I think I think we're just about there.
Looking real good. Yeah, it's almost flush. I think it's almost flush here.
Let me look through the uh the tube here.
I can't tell if that's bottomed out or not in there.
Very tough to say. We'll give it a couple more turns.
Uh, meeting resistance. Time to stop.
I guess a couple more turns was it.
Okay.
So, inspecting the finalized product here. I think we've got nice even press on the seal. That looks like it's in fantastic condition. So, now let's flip around and uh and do the other side.
Actually, real quick, first I'm going to put in my uh my adjuster collar right here and give it its seven turns, seven and a half turns of thread engagement. Put it back where I found it.
There's my half.
Of course, it's going to be pretty. Why wouldn't it be?
In a similar fashion as to the uh the other side over there, I am going to paint mark this one. Even though it's already been slacked off, I want to know like where we started from so we can put it back in the same spot. Does that make sense? So although this is not adjusted, I'm going to mark it.
I'm not going to count live for you guys. You can do the count if you want to.
All right, y'all know the drill by now.
We'll shove the rod in the hole and then beat it out.
Did it poke through? Yeah.
Yeah, it did. This one's harder cuz the tubes a little bit longer. I'm struggling.
Yeah.
Yeah. Watch this. We'll take this socket, this tube. All right. Just use that to to hammer it through. So, I'll drop this in the tube. Push it down.
This is going to work. It's going to be highly effective, you guys. Highly effective. There. You can't see me whacking on it, though. There you go.
Now, let's see.
There it is.
Got it. Okay, let's give this a quick wipy down in here.
Very nice.
There's our old seal.
That one does not have any RTV on it.
I wonder. Yeah, I think this one's had a a leaking problem for a while. We need to take a look at the axle shaft and make sure it's clear of debris and nicks and gouges and stuff. So, I've got our replacement seal getting prepped here. A little bit of sealant on it. Couldn't hurt. I don't believe it's necessary cuz that black coating on here kind of acts as a sealant, but it's not going to hurt anything. Not in this particular application in my opinionated estimation stay very nice.
And once again, got our tool, which will be paired with the wood.
You guys are in the way of my wood, so I'm going to have to move you, I think.
Oh yeah, now you got my wood in your face. That's not going to That's not going to work, is it?
Let's try it one more time. See how you like it. There you go.
There.
Now you can see. Okay, let's start the press action here.
It's going in pretty evenly looking.
Okay, it's getting tough.
I think that's it. I believe we're in.
Let's back this thing out some and take a look at the final product here.
By the way, I don't know if I mentioned it, but I I did install Timkin bearings in this. I did not use like a a no name brand. I figured it'd be best to go with the a good name brand part because we we don't really know or I don't want to have to come in here and do it again.
Smear away some of that excess RTV.
There we go.
>> Okay, let's get this uh the adjuster sleeve back in position and we'll throw the diff back in. Preload it, adjust it up.
You going to you going to thread in there or what?
This thing has potential to absolutely slice the daylights out of my flanges.
It's got little sharp edges all over it.
Man, that's probably good.
Okay, I think it's time to set the differential back into the housing.
I've got it behind me right here on the bench.
I took the bearing caps off and looked at the gears and bearings and all that good stuff. It's fine. This is a nice differential. It's in good shape. Needs no bearing. Needs no work.
>> Get in there.
there.
>> Hang on to it. Let's get one of the caps in.
>> That'll keep it from falling out and breaking on the floor, which would be a bad thing.
>> Okay, >> it's backwards.
>> It is not.
>> The reindeer goes on the right.
>> It does not. Don't do that. Hey, will you hand me that gun down there? Right.
Right down there.
I don't want to let go. Thank you, sir.
>> There we go. Stay. Stay. All right, let's toss this other cap in. Just kind of get it all in position here. What I'm going to do is tighten these down some.
Now, I know that the bearings are seated all the way in the back. So, let's break them loose so we can preload. So, we can move this because we don't have any preload. It's still a little flippy floppy, right?
Break these loose again.
Just bottom it out.
Okay. So, go back to the chisel right here.
We're going to move this last adjuster to preload the bearings and push this thing all the way that way. It won't take us much. I I should have marked it when we started, but wasn't thinking that far ahead, was I?
There is a tool for this that I don't own.
Okay.
So, we'll take pry bar. I'm going to pry the whole assembly that way. Make sure it does not move.
Nothing. Then I'll pry the whole assembly that way.
And it does not move. Good.
I'm good with that. Let's get the torque wrench out. Torque down these four main cap bolts. And should be good to go. I I think I can put these little locks back in right now.
Yep. That one's going to go right there.
Then the other.
I may have to uh Yeah, we're not lining up here, are we? Let's go a little tighter.
There.
Excellent.
Wrong socket.
Nice.
All right, torque wrench time. We need 63 foot-pbs of torque on the clicky wrench.
Very nice.
Oh, that was close. Almost had to reset.
Clickages.
All right, let's get uh the short shaft in. This one's been replaced, I think, once upon a time. The uh the bearing surface on it looks really good. This is what or the ceiling surface, rather.
This is the seal surface here. Yeah, this thing looks pretty good. I'm surprised it was leaking cuz that seal looked okay. And the shaft is okay.
We'll see what it does when it gets back to back together. Ow.
Going to go in air hammer.
I'll use the blunt tip on the air gun hammer here to just try to drive that thing home.
Okay, let's repeat here on uh on this passenger side.
Wipe down the splines.
Sure there's no shoo in there. The seal surface looks pretty decent. Little bit of pitting on this one, but I think it'll be okay.
Okay, I think it's in almost. Need the air gun.
Give it some taparoos.
>> Yeah, we don't go full bore on the air gun. Just enough to push it in.
That's in.
Let's check it at the diff.
We've got splines protruding.
So, axles are together. We can throw the cover back on now and prep it for more fluid. Actually, I have some time. And because I have some time, I have an idea. Let's take and chuck this thing in the heated parts washer. I got this thing fixed the other day.
Let's see here. Heater on, turntable on, wash cycle on. That thing's going to spin around in there, blast some heated uh cleaner concentrate degreaser stuff on it, and uh clean off all the smoo.
While that thing's pressure washing out there, let's go ahead and pivot and we'll throw the bearing and the backing plate and the brakes and whatnot back together. Um I'm only going to record one side of this, kind of like the how the disassembly mostly went down. no reason to excessively duplicate the efforts. It'll make you guys get bored and click away before you engage the like and or subscribe button. And that would be a negative for me and for the channel. So, in an effort to keep you entertained, we will avoid doing things in uh in duplicate.
It should be noted and remembered that the wheel speed sensor is located at the very top of the bearing assembly. So, if you put this on the wrong way, you won't be able to get your ABS to go back together, and you're going to have a bad time.
Bolt lining up.
Another one lining up. Good.
Oh, and also don't forget the uh the splash shield.
I couldn't tell you how many times I put a bearing back on and left the splash shield sitting out and had to take it apart again. It's not good times.
Here's the little screw for the wheel speed sensor at the top.
Get that guy started. Very nice. Here on the back, get that fourth bolt.
threaded through.
Back on the front side, let's throw the washer on. Get the big nuts spun up.
We'll leave it loose for a visual indicator that it's not tight yet. Hex drive. Little socket here for the fastener up top.
Two clicks. Hey, let's sneak in here with a universal on our big bolt.
There we go.
Flip that around that direction and we can maneuver ourselves around to this side.
Last two bolts.
jumpy, man. I just can't Oh, that's a lot.
Yeah. Craftsman universal swivel. Bought it from Sears in 2001 from 1995.
Okay, this guy's bolted on. Axle nuts on. We got a cotter pin in there. It's torqued. Uh, I have the other side together as well. I'm not throwing the brakes on yet because I found this pad right here. It's running a little bit low. So, we called our guy back and we're going to ask him if he wants us to chuck some pads and a set of rotors on there. Um, so I'm not putting the brakes together just yet. So, let's go outside to the parts washer. Here it is finished. Just turn the heater off. Turntable off.
Hope I didn't break that shiny rish.
Very nice.
Let's take this guy out and blow it off.
Let's get rid of some of the the liquid nasty.
Shiny.
Well, there's only one thing to do now with this cover. I don't always paint the covers, but I think this one's worthy. It's in good condition. It's starting to get some rust. Paint's cheap. I've got some time. It'll look better.
I realize the bolts won't match, but I'll paint those two once they're installed.
Throw a little bit of paint on there.
Nice and deep like nice and thick like shiny.
All righty. My paint has dried for enough for me to handle it. I've got the gasket in place back here. It's in really good looking condition, so I'm not going to throw a bunch of sealant onto this or replace the gasket. No need of it. They are reusable.
Depends on the build style, of course, but they are in fact reusable.
All right, the rest of the bolts started and we'll run them down.
I'll blast them with a bit of paint so that they match.
refill it. And uh like I said, I'm still waiting on word on those brakes, which I may not hear from them in a timely fashion. Tell you what, people have jobs. I'm sure dudes at work right now.
Most people have jobs.
Some people have jobs.
Most of my customers have jobs.
You notice the list keeps getting a little shorter on who has jobs. Fast one, Russia.
I want to pull We're good. A little bit of automotive graffiti here. Throw some some more paint on those bolts.
Shiny.
Good to go. Two more tasks.
One will be to refill this thing. And of course, the other is going to be the uh tie rod just above us right there. All >> righty. So, the fluid we'll be using is the Amsol Severe Gear. It's a 100% synthetic, not a full synthetic. There is a difference. It's going to be the 75 winter 90 setup for towing terrain, high temperatures. This is severe duty stuff.
I like it. It's very good. good oil, which is what we've all become accustomed to expecting from AMS oil.
That's why I use it value.
If uh for any reason whatsoever you choose to do any of your own work and would like to uh use Amsoil products, if you uh go down into this video's description, you will find an Amsoil link. That's my affiliate link. It will take you directly to Amsoil's website where you may purchase your product. But if you use my link, they pay me a cut for sending you there.
Also, if you have a lot of vehicles or buy a lot of product or have a farm or a fleet or anything like that, you can sign up for the AMS preferred customer program.
Uh it's kind of like a Costco membership or a BJ's or a Sam's Club where you you pay the annual fee and you get a discount on all products.
It's worth looking into >> if you're purchasing in volume.
>> So, we're three quarts in. We got our overflow going down. So, let's go ahead and put our plug back in.
Couple clickages.
Good to go.
>> Oh, ruined my paint job.
>> Dab that off.
Your mind is transformed in your intentions.
>> There we go. All righty, guys. That's the final product except for some touch-up paint I need to put on right here. Got to throw this on. Still waiting on word on the brakes. And I need to come on back here to this uh Astro van. It's old school Chevy right here. We're doing a rebuild on the rear axle on this one. This one destroyed itself uh in quite a spectacular fashion. The bearings in it are absolutely smoked. The fluid was junk.
And this particular example ended up ruining the actual axles. The surface where the bearings ride on the actual axle has chewed up the axle and is requiring us to replace the axles, too.
So, I'm going to come on back here, change out the bearings on this thing, and uh and help Dave bring this Astro van to completion. So, that being said, since I'm in limbo on the Doge over here, and I don't have word on my parts, I've got nothing more to offer you on this particular truck other than a thank you for watching this video. As always, I hope you enjoyed this video. If you did enjoy this video, please feel free to communicate that to me effectively by engaging in the comment section down below this video. Do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there. And most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day. I'll see you guys later. Thanks for watching and today in a video in a doge in a front end rebuild axle seal repair in a transmission.
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