A poignant ethnographic study that captures the Yaqui community's quiet defiance against cultural erasure. It masterfully balances the weight of ancestral heritage with the pressing realities of modern urban encroachment.
Deep Dive
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Deep Dive
Inside Guadalupe - Arizona’s Hidden Yaqui TownIndexed:
Just minutes from downtown Phoenix sits one of Arizona’s most unique communities. Guadalupe is a small town with deep Yaqui roots, strong traditions, and a history many people pass by without ever knowing. In this episode of American Stories with Paul Winters, a young Yaqui woman takes us through Guadalupe and shares the history, traditions, and spirit of the community she calls home. No politics. No agenda. Just listening.
Have you ever [music] seen a town like Guadalupe? I haven't. No. I mean, really I mean Yeah, I won't show the toes.
>> Okay.
Right in the [music] middle of Phoenix, there's a small town that most people just drive by without ever stopping.
The town is Guadalupe, [music] Arizona.
Today we're slowing down long enough to listen.
>> [music] >> You grew up here, huh? I did.
>> Wow. Yeah, I grew up all right on Guadalupe [music] Road.
>> was that like coming up?
Um it it's you know, just being part of the community and [music] my family, you know, being here. Yeah. Um it was nice to have just a little space that's ours, I guess, and um really tight-knit community.
Right.
>> So. I've heard that, and and you're uh Yaqui, right?
>> Yes. And the story I I I saw the story, but tell me the story how you how your people ended up here. So, from from what I know is a lot of like what um mainly my grandmother has told us, and it's more of like our family story of how you know, her father and grandfather have came this way.
So, they were um at the time, you know, uh with the genocide with the Mexican army and all of that history, they ended up coming this way, and I know some people went up to California.
So, one of my grandmother's brothers also went up to California, but her dad came this way.
And then um eventually meeting my grandfather, and he was from Tubac, Arizona. So, he ended up coming towards the city. So, that's where they met, and she lived right down here off the main road, and then um and so, um she's she's been here ever since. A lot of the older generation, too, like when they were born, I think it I think it's a uh like a cool little fact that you know, a lot of them were born here, like within the the town.
Cuz they didn't go to the hospital or things like that.
>> right in the house.
>> Yeah.
And so, they would joke sometimes and say like, "Oh, under that tree right there." So, those are the the fun little things that they would say.
And so, they they came this way, and that's kind of where they ended up here.
Um but also, there's a few other settlements like in Chandler, um Scottsdale, and somewhere in Phoenix as well, where um part of the Yaqui people went to go work on um the building of the canals and some of the areas where they had work. But the whole tribe decided to get away from Mexico because of the uh you know, they were attacking you. And then the whole tribe just said, "Hey, we're leaving." Right?
>> Some of them did. Some of them stayed and fought. Are you still in touch with some that stayed? Are they're still there?
>> Oh, yeah. A lot of And And it's really a community that's still connected. Yeah.
Um we have, especially when we have our cultural um ceremonies, they we come back and forth constantly.
And so, um it's a lot of tribes on this side that do that. I know the Tohono O'odham, they also do that as well. How does that work at the border? Because you're a citizen of America, plus you're a citizen of your tribe. So, how does the Mexican government treat you coming back and forth? Do you need visas and I think that's where our tribe is like really um good at. They have those relationships, and they keep those relationships because of the importance of the cultural aspect of having And I say that cuz that's our whole tribe. Like we are one people, but geographically, of course, we have our differences.
Um you know, we're way over here, they're way over there, so life is a little different just because of where we're located. Do they come up and and do they come up and visit, too, or do they Yes, all the time. Now, language, what what language is it a Is it like Apache or is it your own? No, it's yeah, it's the Yaqui language. The Yaqui language, okay. So >> And who speaks it? Just just you? Um a lot of the elders do. So But I mean, your your people only speak it. So it's not like any of the other uh It's a I know the not formally, but it's part of the I think it's the Uto-Aztecan um language. I know there's sister languages out there that where some of the words are a little similar. Could you like pigeon talk with an Apache or I'm I'm Possibly if they're if they're really um You know, yeah. Yeah, cuz you look at all the words like from Western languages that, you know, they always have ones cuz you figure they all started one spot and all spread, but in the same I don't know if languages are so important. Are people keeping the language? Um that's one of the things that yeah, with you know, the community they try to. Yeah. They do a great job, you know, um What I see is that like living here, it's just life is on the go, you know, we are small community, but at the same time we have Tempe, Chandler, Right.
Phoenix all around us, and so But when you stand here and look Yes, that is >> you don't feel like you're in the middle of fields, right? [laughter] I mean, we could be like somewhere Yeah.
>> You know, crazy on the outskirts of Arizona and it's And this is home.
That's That's my favorite thing is that like is it's wonderful and this is your home. What What do you feel when you leave here and go a couple blocks over? You know, we we do recognize like we're we're a part of the area, part of here. But also it's I think it's more the feeling of coming back. Yeah. Where it's like, "Okay."
>> our >> You know, guards down a little bit more or you know, we know what's going on. Okay, let's go for a ride and see who's outside. Is everybody is close, right? So the community they all know each other? In a sense. A lot of um a lot of, you know, families are getting bigger and bigger generations. So um it could be extended family, family friends, and so um I think that's kind of the safest uh one of the safest things about it is, you know, everyone knows everyone.
Right. Um And what are these murals? Are they So these Yeah, these murals are done by one of actually one of our community members.
>> Can I shake their hand? Yeah, yeah.
So that's our um Wow. Our Maso, he's our deer dancer.
Really? And so he's a big representation of the uh Yaquis.
And um Yeah, JJ Lopez. He does a lot of the murals. Um then there's one of the Itomai. She's the um Our Lady of Guadalupe. Hummingbirds are a big representation as well as long as flowers.
Mhm, within the culture.
And nobody comes here and spray paint messes it up, do No, yeah. disrespect, right? Not not so much. Yeah. So that's, you know, I mean you get something of course here and there because that's just inevitable anywhere you go, but um for the most part Yes, yes. It's like that movie, it's people.
>> [laughter] >> So, what about the the younger people? You know, are they staying here or do they appreciate what you have here?
>> Well, that's that's kind of the hard thing because there's not too many um there's not so much space.
So, it is a small community and you know, at this point it feels like you're going to have to build up, right, rather than out because there's not that much space anymore. A lot of it is also just the way our families live.
Um you know, the multi-gen house. So, we have generations living with other families, but again, you know, sometimes um that's kind of what certain demographics do and things like that. So, a lot of the young people stay because of, you know, of that and or if they do move out, you know, they come back and and are still part of the community. So, there is a draw. People leave and then they come back, right? Cuz I would think this would be a great place to live.
Yes.
>> cuz it's sort of kept the small town you know, mystique. It's not There's not a hard you know, Jack in the Box here. It It feels like a real community. Like it feels different than Phoenix. Mhm. That's what I notice.
I've always noticed that. I've always been fascinated by how it stayed stayed this way, you know?
How do you think it did? I mean, just >> I I think it's good, you know, at at one point um it's kind of like us, too. We have to figure out how to keep up, right? Yeah.
With the changing of times and everything that's going on.
>> Maybe not. I think you have it You're doing better here than out there, really. And >> but also keeping that aspect. So, like even with our cultural um ceremonies that happen, you know, a lot of it is not to be recorded or taped and things like that. But, um again, it's inevitable with people just passing through and especially, you know, community members or members outside of the community. So, um I think it's a lot of adjusting. Where was your house? Where do you live? Right off of Guadalupe Bay Road. So, it's a bit more that way. But, this is our community garden in here. Oh, I see. And you grow things to eat or just Uh we're trying.
So, Well, this started as a a farming community, didn't it? That's what I heard. Like the cuz they talk about the three the three types of >> Yeah.
>> What is that? It's the squash. Let me see if I can get this going.
I think it's the squash.
Um Yeah, I won't show the code.
>> Okay.
All of a sudden, all the vegetables are gone. Yeah.
So, um yeah, this was actually started by um I think uh Girl Scout troop. And then it kind of got it handed off to community members and then um it's it like gardens are so it's so much to um sustain that the Pascua Yaqui tribe eventually um took over. This is a lot of our the bamboo uh the carizo. That's something that's used traditionally, which you can see in the the >> What's carizo? The bamboo right here.
>> Okay. Do you have that in Mexico or Um it it it it grows out here as well, but this that yeah, that we use for the our structure here, the ramada.
It's trying to bring the traditions and the culture into the garden as well.
But, um usually they use it for ceremonial or just any structures, you know, coming from um Mexico and things like that. Yeah.
It is very nice. They were like, "You should extend it." And that's something we're thinking about.
So, and just have a lot of um desert plants, things that can sustain out here cuz that's what we're struggling with. We have um a lot of garden beds, but it's like hard for anything to take, so >> Now, I I read that this whole area there were farms and and some of the people came and worked on the farms.
And then I know for sure like Baseline Road and these are kind of stories like my mom said and other community members, but Baseline Road was like um orange groves. Oh, really?
>> Like all the way down, so it was it was around. I don't know if it was here and then even like the mountain um I don't know if you've heard of the restaurant Rustler's Roost.
>> Oh, sure. Yeah. So, the street that we were by by the church, that street used to go up that way.
>> Okay. And so one of our ceremonial practices of um one of our ceremonies where the community members would um like kind of a pilgrimage going up that way, so um How does it >> It's It's those interesting things that you know, you're you kind of look around and you're like, "Oh."
How does the Catholic Church fit into the the the culture and and the Um you know, that was kind of way back when, you know, and and the history with that is um a lot of people take it differently, of course, just like anywhere else, but uh the when the Jesuits were coming to Mexico and introducing it, it was kind of like infused rather than just like "Here you go, this is what it is." It was um infused in little parts of of the culture.
>> Meaning you will do it. Yeah.
>> They didn't ask.
>> Yes.
>> Right, right, right.
>> And so um they it was in a way of that's some people will word it that way or just kind of like the Yaquis kind of decided, "Okay, we'll do this little piece or we'll take part of this little piece or we'll kind of put these aspects into some of the things." So, you will see it kind of sprinkled in within the ceremonies. Um but also there's some things where um you're kind of like, "Oh, you know, this looks something completely different." So.
>> Do the Yaquis go to the Catholic church cuz there's a church right in the middle?
>> The one where we were, yes. Do people go? So, the smaller one on the left um from again, this is kind of like just history family members would tell me, was just for ceremonial purposes. So, during the Lenten season, you know, when they would do their ceremonies, um that's what the church was used for mainly.
So, the bigger church on the right side um which the diocese kind of I don't want to say overtook, but they're they pretty much um facilitate everything that's in there.
Um that was more for like weddings and quinceañeras and parties. More not so ceremonial traditionally.
>> What did What do they do when the the deer dancers come out? He goes back and search.
>> Oh, and and that's yeah, that's that's Cuz that's your culture.
>> It's It's in Yeah, it's in It's It kind of goes so it's like kind of anybody coming in it's like you have to adjust yourself to us.
>> [laughter] >> Yeah, exactly. Now Because you're coming into the community and Is the community Is it part of the tribe or is it a town in Arizona? No, yeah.
It's an No, it's an incorporated town.
And that was in the nine- Oh, 1970s.
>> Okay. I believe. Yeah, it was incorporated by um groups of the community and that wasn't just um Yaqui you know, people. That was also um Hispanic African American >> of people, right? There's about 4,000 people, 4,500?
>> And what's the mix? Mostly Yaqui and Mexican?
>> Um it's a good mix. Yeah, especially now because of just um you know, people getting older generations and and so being around the area, it's it's a Does everybody get along like pretty much? I mean anywhere, it's literally like anywhere. So of course all of those things come up and you know, things like that, but for the most part I feel like everyone has a respect for, hopefully.
Has a respect for everyone.
>> you say, it's your place. Like even though it's a I mean you everybody knows coming in this is like we knew that >> and that's Yeah, yeah. It's a community and I think it's like anybody that lives here knows that, you know, whether they're Yaqui or non, you know, it's a tight-knit community and I think it's the the preservation again, whether the background um it's it's kept as like a small town, so Well, I I think it's fascinating that it stayed this way because most towns can't. They're swept up by the the wave of civilization and this is like it's just chill, man.
>> It's yeah. It's just chill. You come and you have a different even standing right here, it's a different >> It's nice. I love this garden. Yeah, it's really >> It does feel a little different. Yeah, so the the mesquite tree is the huge one that's giving everything shade. That is one of the trees, you know, that grow here obviously and in Mexico are one of the big ones um that are constantly used.
It seems like our culture, like the the American culture, they don't value elder elders. You know, they're like some do, but I I think some of the native cultures are way better at that.
Don't you think?
>> Yes, and that's and that is exactly what, you know, our community is like.
>> Yeah. And you know, specifically just the Guadalupe community is that the um and I know as, you know, kids and and the young person growing up, it's hard to like learn that lesson that you should Yeah.
um you know, kind of listen and and it's a special it's something special to to have when you have grandparents or even great-grandparents.
>> parents. Mhm. Yeah. And so, I think they do a good job. Um a lot of our community, you know, whether it's in the western, you know, eyes if if it's bad, but a lot of our grandparents are caretakers for their grandkids because mom and dad is working, mom and dad is going to school, mom and dad is still So, um that also goes with like the multi-generational in the home.
Like, that's kind of just what our people kind of um it's kind of what works for us.
>> Yeah. Did you You grew up in that? Or is it still >> Yeah. And so, like, grandma and grandpa, you know, we go to go to their house every day after school.
Mom would be working and then she would come and pick us up and we'd go home.
So, you know, we spent a lot of time with our grandma and grandpa and just aunts and uncles. So, it's it's like a full family unit rather than just, you know, the the mom and dad.
Right. It seems like a a good way to go, too, cuz you could share from everybody.
Plus, it's a lot cheaper. Yes. Yeah, cuz then Especially now. So, >> Especially now. Yeah, because now it's like everybody gets out and everybody gets a new place. Everyone's paying a mortgage. It's like, what if you all had a compound, you know? You You have a lot more money. Yes. Yes. And And some Again, some families are like that. I know back back when my grandma had her house here and my uncle lived right next door. So, we had a huge backyard.
>> What plans are there for the the future to keep it this way? Or Is it Are there Is anyone planning that?
Or is it just >> hope so. Without getting too political, I hope so. You know, >> want to get you in trouble or anything, but what what cuz you you look at it and think man this It's a special place. Not a lot of people have this. Not a lot of people But I bet >> I bet people have come and said hey we'd like to buy half the northern half to put up a condominium. They'll leave and do for houses. Like yeah, if you have a house they're like hey we want to buy your house, you know.
>> but no I don't see any No.
>> lots that have been taken over and someone put in a $6 million home. It's just I don't see it, you know. So people do people come in and say hey I want to buy your house. I I think so for sure and some people are either just don't answer or just like you know no no thank you. What do you think people like from outside the community like don't get about Guadalupe? Is there anything they don't understand or It's just a community like anywhere else, but of course it has its own identity, its own language, its own culture whether it's like town culture or you know ceremonial culture. Yeah. Um What what do you hope happens here? Does it stay the same or I would hope so. I would hope it stays the same and I would hope a lot of you know I mean just me being um uh a tribal member, you know, that the culture is still um preserved here and also, you know, the rights to practice the culture, the rights to um you know, kind of share that um identity without it ch- changing with the times.
>> So.
>> the challenge too is to try to keep it >> Yes. the way it was, but then deal with what's happening now, right? I hope you keep it just like it is cuz I like it like this. Yeah, it's really nice. [laughter] Yeah, it's like I really do. You stand here and you think this you know, like we could be not in Phoenix, that's for sure.
>> Mhm. Mhm. And it's special, you know.
But then too it's like cool. We just go down the road and we're at the mall.
>> [laughter] >> You don't have to drive We can hop on the freeway and go to the you know, so those those it's like it's good and you know, the people are all there.
>> at night is it nobody comes through here, right, usually? Nobody's You have it all to yourself in a way.
>> Sometimes, yeah. In a way. How's crime here? Is it It's, yeah, that's the other thing, too, though. It's It's It's a It's a lot, but it's um It's different. And again, it's um How do you say that?
It's more of what is the trends right now, I guess, depending on >> your community.
>> about your community. It's about every community. Every community is suffering from >> Yes.
Yes.
>> violence and drugs. Drugs are The homelessness and and that's everywhere, you know, and it's it's a struggle, so finding resources, you know, that's Yes.
>> What's What do you What do you do? I mean, in So, that that's pretty much what we do, you know, we're prevention, but also we work with those that work in harm reduction. And so, um they come in and they're able to with, you know, their team to provide resources, to provide anything that community members will need.
>> So, that's a good >> And the And the cool part is they've been consistent within the community, and so the community is is open to going.
So, they'll they'll even do focus groups. Yeah, they'll also do focus groups. They'll have conversations.
>> They're They're comfortable. They're And because it's consistent, Right. um they show up.
They show up for the help. So, um those are some of the things that I even feel like inside the community don't really understand those perspectives of, you know, either being a family member of someone who is, you know, addicted or, you know, is struggling.
Those are a lot of the Like you say, that's affecting everybody.
>> Mhm. Yeah. So, in that Yeah, that's that's essentially what it is is it is everywhere, but it is a little different, I would say, because of like maybe stigmas within communities or, you know, um communication is different within the communities.
So. Is there a Well, well, that's interesting. Is the family communicates differently?
I I think so. It's it's um Like they're more quiet or less >> culturally and even in the generation, a lot of people I don't want to say that, but um it's just learning how to Yeah.
>> especially with the like um like the grandparents raising grandkids, you have two completely opposite ends of the spectrum of generation and communication is completely different there where um it's learning learning each other, learning um just what's in the times now.
>> that, too.
>> [laughter] >> And so that's it, you know, even with my program, you know, we try to promote like those positives and get ways to how to communicate. And what's the program called? Um the Guadalupe Prevention Partnership. So.
>> What's the motto of the town?
Um where three cultures flourish.
And the cultures were Yaqui, >> [snorts] >> Mexican, and Anglo or I I would I think so. I haven't really Yeah.
Can you name one as Yaqui? Yes.
It's it's just, you know, kind of a town that's just the same as any other where we're unique in our ways and our culture again, language, identity. Well, I I've never Have you ever seen a town like Guadalupe? I haven't. No. I mean, really, in all my travels, I have never >> Trying to be um humble, though.
>> yeah, but I there's some something unique about it. I mean, that's why we came here because And I noticed that when When first moved here, came through, I said, "Nobody, nobody goes here. Like, you know what I mean?
Nobody And that's the beauty of it, right?
That's why good for you, right? Yeah, and also, um, which is funny because one of the I wouldn't call it a trend, but uh, some um, TikTokers, like influencers?
>> Yeah. Um, like the food people. Right.
They have been coming down. And so, they've been coming not so much the restaurants, but like the homes that sell Oh, okay.
>> So, we have a few community members that sell food.
And um, they Sell to the public, you mean?
>> Yes. How do you find >> put they'll just put signs on this road.
Oh, okay. I don't think there's any right now. There's one maybe back there.
>> So, the TikTokers come and start talking. And that's good for business, probably.
>> Oh, yeah. Oh, yeah.
Was there anything we should mention?
Any plug?
Um, the one I like going to, she's down the road right here. Her name's uh, Rebecca Hi'iaka Mea.
>> Oh, your name is Rebecca? Yes. Yeah.
And so, she does um, enchiladas, she does burritos, um, a lot of um, some desserts.
And so, she'll always put her sign right here on this this street.
>> Yeah. And she's just right down the road.
And she usually um, cooks on Fridays.
Oh, okay. It's a baseball community, so um, the field right here, we have a big baseball field where the lights are. And there's one in the by the church, too, right? Yes, right here. So.
>> likes baseball. Mhm. Nice. But it's cool because the younger generations are finding um, we have a lot of musicians here as well.
Um, what else? But do the young people know how cool this is to have a place like this? I mean, I would think so. I hope so. Or other uh, really, it's probably like this is just home, you know?
I think that's what it is. And then And get to a certain age where you're like You appreciate it. Yes. Yeah, you reach that age where hey, dad was right. Yeah.
>> [laughter] >> How old is your daughter? She is nine.
>> Nine? You have one? I have three.
>> Three? Oh, wow.
How are the sheriffs?
They're pretty um again, kind of the established Yeah. Um they work, I think the government's uh work as best as they can with the tribe and the town and the MCSO to work together especially with safety. Are there any tribal members on the council and the like who's the mayor? Is the mayor a tribal member?
>> She is a tribal member, yes.
>> Mayor is a tribal member. I believe um there might be I don't know how many seats there are.
Seven?
Are you Are you going to run? Uh no.
>> No.
I I like I like working with community. Yeah. Um I don't know. I can barely sit in meetings now.
>> [laughter] >> You might fall asleep, right?
>> Yeah.
I'm a but um you know.
So I think only like maybe one or two on the town council are not tribal members. Okay, so you're what you're represented. Oh, yeah. Yeah, you keep on on just doing what they want with the place.
I mean, not to get political, but you know, it's it's It's definitely different when it comes to politics. Yeah, you I mean, you go to any tribal government and and the people I I've heard stories of all kind, you know, missing casino money. Now, you don't have casinos, do you? No, not Well, You have one down down south? Yes.
Yeah. There's about There's a small one, the very first one they have.
Um Casino Del Sol. So do you get like casino money?
>> No. No, see that's the issue, right? And then they're they made the second one.
It's Casino Del Sol. Yeah. And then they're making a third one.
Right off of I think it's off of Grant Road.
So, a little bit more in the city like right before you get to the reservation.
I think that's where it is. Yeah.
Yeah, and this school just got remodeled, too.
Couple I think My daughter's in third grade.
>> or Yeah, so she was um she started her first year in kindergarten here.
So.
How was the school?
It's really good. It's they're really well in tune with the community. It's the only school within the the town limits. So, everyone else has to go to Tempe or Chandler.
So, this goes to what grade?
Uh fifth.
>> Fifth, okay. And then then they go out of the community?
>> Yes. Will you ever make a another school on on on the I don't You know, I don't think there's enough space.
>> seems to be like It's very small.
>> is is the problem, right? But everyone has a nice elbow room, you know? It's like >> Oh, yeah. But but people do come in and want to buy the properties, right?
>> I yeah. And what would they do with them, you know? I mean That's kind of the scary part. But I bet as real estate investors they're looking at off only we could buy this block, you know. Mhm, I'm sure.
>> Cuz they're all about the money. You could care about the money. You want to keep the And it's like yeah, and it's a very high um What is that called?
Every word This is like a priority area, you know? Like everything's right >> This around. You could sell this this property for huge huge You could all go up you know, millionaires. But then it would be done, right?
>> Yeah.
Yeah. So.
There's also a Guadalupe base cemetery.
Which was the original the original um um town site. That's where the town site was.
>> right off of uh Baseline.
>> Yeah, and then and then >> Right in the neighborhood, yeah.
So imagine years ago there was nothing around and then it all just Yeah. settled around here.
>> This is the tribal seal and then this is our coalition.
So what don't they so So what is a flower? Okay. Don't they may is The way they translated is blossoming.
Blossoming flower.
Great. So >> Again, thank you for sharing your place and yourself and your time. And can I give you a hug?
>> Yeah, sure. Thank you so much.
Thank you. [music] We'll be your We'll be your pal. We'll come visit.
>> Awesome.
Every town has a story.
In Guadalupe they're holding on to theirs.
Right over there.
Thanks for riding along.
>> [music]
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